This Parts Page is an extension of Erwin's SG Work Shop
Last update of this section: June 10, 08
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If I want optimum performance, I use 4" aluminum round stock by 4" long and have it machined to fit the 1 x 1x 4" magnets individually, which I cut earlier. This will make a nice 4 coiler. Also keep in mind that you will not be able to cut all the magnets exactly to same size which will cause an imbalance in the rotor which you must correct. If you weigh them carefully and keep cutting them to the right weight it helps a lot. You should cut them into the shape of a dove-teal anyhow to keep them securely fastened to the rotor!
Bar clamp and Cutter
I use small stainless steel bearings 7/32 5mm ID (inside diameter) and 5/8 16mm OD ---> G1558 $1.49 and 5/16 8mm x 3/4 19mm with rubber seals and thrust, same size.
Thrust bearings http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/CTGY/MBB
On hand of JB's (John Bedini) drawings #1 and 2 only one battery is used in small setups, it is mainly for testing. We all use one or two driving batteries charging a Battery bank through the SSG or SG energizer. If you want to get really serious building, then buy a couple or four new 12V 7.2AH gel cells for starters, especially if you are planning on working in living room conditions, but much better yet are four of U1 garden tractor batts with removable plugs for checking the output of the SG by watching the bubbles in the electrolyte level, in your shop ore garage if you have one. Don't buy batts that have been sitting on the shelve deteriorating. Stay away from old batteries, unless you have no choice, until you constructed an energizer that has a proper output! You will be able to charge sulfated batts that no longer take a conventional charge, as long as all cells are still conducting. I use a hydrometer to check charge or quality of the cells, which is another reason for not buying sealed batteries. Gel sells that no longer took a conventional charge and would not respond well while hooked up to the SSG, I filled with battery acid just to the top of the plates. Because of air locks it is a little tricky to do but works good with a stainless steel needle syringe.
If an old battery took much abuse, it is probably not worth bothering with!!!
Do not be alarmed if an old battery slowly drops to 0 volts. I had one that staid at 0V for several months. It was my old farm tractor battery, which I brushed the dust off of at 4.5V and added 3 liters of tap water to it, bringing it up to 7.5V. Here is the story:
My little 2 1/2" energizer was working very hard, starting from 7.5 volts, with the voltage steady climbing about 1V/24hrs up to 10.84 volts, where it suddenly shorted out, I knew because the neon lamp was lighting up, which surprised me, because I had checked that battery thoroughly shaking it hard, there where no loose "marbles" in the bottom of the battery case (broken out active material). I switched over to the CSB 12V 7.0Ah batt, where the energizer was working just fine. Thence I shook the battery again real hard and dumped the acid-water-mix in a plastic container and rinsed the individual cells out four times, using a water nozzle, only fine sludge appeared, then I added new electrolyte battery acid-mix (you can buy it at a battery outlet). As I measured the voltage across the terminals right away, I was reading 11.84 volts to my surprise!! Again I hooked up the SG energizer and it charged up to 12.4 Volts. Soon thereafter it slowly dropped down to 0 volts where I left it. Not until I had my little SSG4a B/C four coiler finished, I assure you, it is a real jewel, I drove it with my Happy Day Goat Dairy power source at 11.5volts input and hooked it up to that old 600CCA which was at 0 volts, the AMP/VOM showed a current of 2.5amps in and charging 0.6 amp out, with a surprising "high" voltage charge off the Thyristor (SCR) starting at 20 volts slowly and steady dropping, never seen before, Tom Bearden is elaborating about it in his papers. Once it arrived at 12.5 V, I switched that batt for another momentarily and noticed to my surprise 11.7V from 0 volts in a half hour. It now easily charges up to 14.2 volts and is holding its capacity around 12.68V if I let it sit. The first half hour discharge cycle at 1.5 amp dropped it down to 12.10V but it recuperated right away to 12.26V. Next cycle it took 1 1/2 hrs to drop to 12.25V. Last, it took four hours to bring it down to 12.25V at 1.5amp. As you can see, the battery slowly improves in its holding capacity.
Old dirty electrolyte has strange effects on batteries. I have super charged two 8 year old 12V DELCO 1000 CCA's only do find them one day discharged to 10 volts after they sat for a couple of months. They would charge up to 12.46V and loose the charge over night from then on. Hence I also rinsed them out like I described above, they slightly gained voltage after I filled them up with new electrolyte. Keep in mind that every battery behaves slightly different and must be stabilised before parallel charging after a cleansing job, even if it is a twin of the first. This two DELCO's I'm talking about are a good example.The first one I hooked up to the SSG4a B/C started charging with a PS intake of 15V, out at over 17V (with the volt needle violently kicking at the start) while slowly dropping down to 14.45V within a halve an hour where it stabilized more or less and started to properly charge the battery... 25min. later it held a charge of 12.40V. The other DELCO charged normally and steady from the beginning, starting at 12.30V or so and climbed to 13.30 within about 20min. where I unhooked it and balanced both at 12.45 in between rest periods, charging or better said energizing them in parallel from that moment on until the voltage stopped climbing at 13.30 thus after unhooked, the surface charge tissipated away to 12.58V where it staid as before the trouble started. The battery capacitance of the two will be improving now if cycled.
For one dollar I bought a new looking 12V 600CCA RV/Marine deep cycle, measuring 10 volts across the terminals and 0.1125 points sg (specific gravity) "low” in the red on the hydro meter, all cells where the same. I hooked it up in intervals to two of my SSG's for a couple weeks just steady charging without any discharge, once it started moving, gaining on capacity to 15volts and measuring 0.1225 psg "fair" near the top of the purple, just before entering 1250-1300 psg "good" the green, I started cycling the battery. It dropped down from 13.22 volts to 12.88 with a load of 0.900Amp (three auto clearance lamps) within 3 hrs where I unhooked it with the volts moving up to 12.91 where it staid for a day, it would not drop any more, thus I charged it up again. I can tell, the one dollar was well spent; it is going to be a dandy!! ... Is it worth the trouble? That is up to you!
Testing an old lawn mower battery
A friend gave it to me. It is a 12V Die Hard SEARS year 97 showing a charge of 8Volts. The little access pop lids where glued in!!! After angle cutting with a knife around the circumference I popped them out and found the acid low in all the compartments. I filled them up to the top of the plates with electrolyte and toped them off with distilled water, hooked it up to my SSG4a B/C , set the PS "Zurich # DS-304M" to 10V 1A in 0.4A out for slow low energizing , meaning as little current in as possible, remember it is the scalar energy we are after to fix the plates. I could use 15V 2A in and 0.8A out and charge the battery much faster but naturally more current meaning more cycling time it would take much longer!!!! Once the charging voltage stopped climbing or it stopped supercharging in this case at 14.15V it was time to start cycling it. I discharged it with a 200ma 12V bulb. You got to take it easy with the load at first. The battery took 5min. discharging down to 12 V, then 10 min. to 12.25V, then 45 min. to 12.30V. After 7 cycles it charges now up, on the same setting, easy from 12.25 V to 15.75V in one hour. Hooking it up to my 1500watt (too big) inverter with the DS-304M set to 6V energizing 4 Ni Cad's, drawing 5.6 amps total only for testing purposes, the battery dropped to 9 volts and held there more or less for 15 min. where I shut things down. The lawn mower battery right away recuperated to the capacity of 12.45V. The fact it dropping below 12V told me that it wasn't ready for a hefty load yet. I did some more cycling but using a two filament auto teal lamp which drew 2 amps as the load. Then I used the 1500W inverter trick again (which is too much load of coarse) to see whether the battery was improving in capacity, which it did, because it held then at 12V for 15min and again recuperated to 12.45. Looks like I have a battery which I can put to use after some more cycling :).
Summer 2007, Rescuing an old sulphated 1000 CCA battery by cycling it my way:
A friend looked for a spark by striking a wire between the two terminals of a 12V battery in a scrap yard and brought it to me. It is called a freedom battery and had removable pry caps under the plastic sticker, thus I was able to top up the electrolyte, the ones which have no removable caps are garbage (rip off).
The idea is to place a load of 5.2A onto the battery for a short duration while making sure the battery recuperates over 12 volts, preferable 12.25V.
The Hydrometer showed a 0.1125 density of the electrolyte reading and the voltmeter indicated 11.25 Volts and the conventional charger accomplished zero charging.
I hooked it up to my SSG4a with a Volt reading of 11.28 and climbing, which is a promising sign. (Usually the initial charging with old sulphated no good batts is between 18 and 24Volts with the voltage slowly dropping to the proper level where it then starts climbing). When the battery was to the point where the volt needle no longer climbed any further I discharged it with two car tail light bulbs at 5.2 A within a few seconds, watching the voltmeter needle dropping to 11.5V then letting it recuperate. If it recuperated more then to 12.25V, I discharged it a little more. You want to make sure it always recuperates over the 12.00V mark. Next charge it would stop charging a little higher as before and would take a little longer to discharge and it also would recuperate a little more say, to 12.35V. In repeating the charging and discharging cycle, it became evident that the battery after 48 hrs cycle time would charge up to 14.75V and would discharge and hold a 5.2A load down to 12.10V for 15 min. by removing the load the battery would recuperate to 12.58V within 5min. I left it sit for a week or so, the volt indicator needle showed 12.50V and applied the same load to it. It held the load of 5.2A at 11.90V without dropping any further for 15 min. where I unhooked it and watched it recuperating to 12.30V within one minute. Of course I charged it up to max. voltage right away again. The more I repeat this cycle the more capacity the plates will store. I tried this with several batteries now and it seams to work according to the quality of the battery; very well for some and not so good for others. This system is a lot less time consuming than the procedure of the C20 rate.
18V Power pack:Remember not to go back to conventional charging, because you will undo the work you have done with the Bedini energizers to the battery plates so far!
The primary voltage Power Source of the charger is smaller than the battery to be charged. Na, this won't work you'll say. Read on....If you are using power tools with power packs do not hesitate using your SSG to charge them with. Reasons = My SSG4a using the 11.5V PS (open frame switching supply) at 2.2 A in and 0.3 A (this rate changes depending on the size and type of battery being used) out with a continuous 4 volts ahead of the charging battery level due to the stored voltage in the 4 - 330V 100uF photo caps for one... and the other, don't forget it is a Bedini marvel :). It will charge a new drained 18V Power pack automatically at present voltage level, in this case 18.65V to 21.5V in 60 Min. Using the variable 15V PS will take 30 Min. at 3.2A in and 0.8A out also with 4V continuous higher charging rate. Measure it for instance once the power pack does no longer take a charge, say at 21.5V by placing the negative lead of the VOM to the negative battery terminal and the positive lead to the SSG side of the SCR which would give me a reading of 25.5V. I charge my packs by removing the bottom of the power pack charging assembly and placing the alligator clips to the pos. and neg. battery adapter terminals, it works great! In this system the patter capacity will improve whereas in the conventional charging habit the battery will slowly loose its value (the result of killing the dipole)!! After a few cycles one battery is charging up to 24.4V now, 2.9V better than when it was new!!!
Depending on Battery banks:
If I would be involved in remote power storage, depending on batteries, I would certainly concentrate on building at least an SSG 6-coiler energizer to keep those batteries alive forever, not to speak of the gaining electronic skills and possibilities to upgrade the whole system while engaged into the technology. Solar panels with a battery bank is good back up power (your wife will like it during your SSG maintenance).
Change the parallel hookup of the cell rows to series inside the panels for less current and higher charging voltage = better scalar performance. (Thanks Jon V) :)
Be aware that you can always build your own 2 volt bank by taking incomplete banks apart and setup a new one. Keep in mind that the SG energizer is not restricted to a certain voltage. If you have eight volts available you can easily charge a big 12V deep cycle. The SSG will even charge a 40V deep cycle bank hooked to a 16V primary battery (8- 2V cells) or less. The cause is the photo cap-bank and HV spikes.
Neutralizing battery acid
To get rid of the acid I neutralized it with garden lime or Type S (lumber mart), which the masons are using, it works the best. I use it a lot with a brush and little water until neutralized, especially after charging a battery. I actually neutralized straight sulphuric acid with moistened Type S lime which foamed a little and got warm, then I let it dry in the sun where it got hard like plaster of Paris. Once I wet it again and tested it with my garden PH tester the indicator showed PH of 7 neutral. I stuck my finger in it and noticing it being tasteless.
EV battery banks: June 10-08
Electric Vehicle battery problems stem mainly from the wrong chargers used, which are killing the dipole and herewith your batteries slowly but surely.
If I would own an EV, the first thing I would make sure is that I would be setup with my independent/own mobile-charging-station!
I'd build myself a 10-coil rotary SSG radiant energy charger running itself (Monopole Magneto) on a small garden tractor battery with an automatic starter and shut down, charging the battery bank by demand whenever the EV-motor and all power is disconnected from the bank.
Eventually I'd run my EV with a Bedini motor/s much more efficient if not charging the bank with the same motor/pulser while I'm running it!!!
If you do not have time or can't be bothered with building your own chargers but want to save money running your batteries, then visit http://r-charge.com/ and consider the Renaissance Charger RC-2A12 a product result of the New Revolutionary Technology Giving New Life to 12V Batteries, which is a Radiant Charging challenge to industrial charging standards.
I bought it to compare it to my own rotary Bedini chargers. I think it works great on my 5 1000 CCA battery bank, which it is probably designed for, where as for singles it puts in to much ampere current it drives them quickly thus you have to watch the charging time and keep an eye on the battery since the electrolyte expands from the bubbles.
Check out "Dude Buggy's" page at: http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Bedini_SG:Replications:Monsieur_Bonheur-BediniBasedGenerator
Cover all your batteries while charging, very important for safety, hitting a battery with too big of a voltage spike or spark might be enough cause to explode it!!! Meaning acid everywhere and possible injury, so better be save than sorry.
Believing in hard times to come, like I do, perhaps having the means to store big brutes of batteries, then I suggest you stay in touch with a battery dealer who takes in recycle batts and wait for fork-lift or ice-rink equipment deep-cycle batteries to pass by, or visit any outfit that are in need of backup power. In the other hand, if you truly believe, that in time of need the Lord Jesus will look after you, then you are in good shape already now!! Just remember to listen to the inner thought while tuned to the Lord and move accordingly.
"Practical Electronics for Inventors" by Paul Scherz, McGraw-Hill...No. 3105, $39.95 US, Tel: 815 935 5353 fax 935 5477 (ask for catalog) .http://www.lindsaybks.com/ tel or
John Bedini and Tom Bearden's new book FREE ENERGY GENERATION and Energy from the Vacuum at:
Dick Raymond's Joy of Gardening ISBN-10: 0882663194
Back to Basics ISBN 0-89577-086-5 456 pages
How to learn and Enjoy Traditional American Skills by READER'S DIGEST.
A very valuable book: on how to accomplish things: buying country property, house building, adobe, timber frame barn joinery, H2O storage, saunas, composting toilets, heating, fences, solar energy, determine the amount of power available in a stream, water power, home gardening, preserving produce, grafting for propagation, fruits and nuts, pest control, grains and grasses, beekeeping, fish farming, raising life stock..., making your own dairy products, home made beverages, how to make wines, spinning, weaving, rope and twine, tanning, wood working and rustic...,broom making, metal working, and black metals/ anvil/ brake drum forge, blacksmith work, stenciling, soap making, basketry and much, much more......this book is loaded with info.
40uF 5KV Monster, approx $135.00 each, much smaller 0.25uF 6.3 KV pulse discharge, approx. $10.00 each and much more from KGB army made in Russia. All new, they are very nice, clean and sturdy caps. Sold by Gintaras Saskenas at: http://stores.ebay.com/KW-Tubes of Vilinus in Lithuania. Gintaras is very trustworthy and pleasant to deal with. Those caps are heavy, which you'll feel by the shipping charges, nevertheless you'll still come out much on top. They are made-up of welded steel casings with stainless steel nuts, no need worrying about blowing them up!!!
A very good site to read up on caps is: http://www.sayedsaad.com/fundmental/11_Capacitance.htm
1/2" 22GA http://www.dahlvalve.com/
If you see the strapping else where, make sure it is copper and not just surface treated steel. Check it with a magnet.
Metal Digital Counter 1/4 long by 1/8 slotted shaft 3/4" DIA by 3/4" long. Electronic Goldmine Part # G14353 approx. price USD 2.00= out of stock.
Durant 6 Digit 24VDC Impulse counter for 1x.8" pannel hole, #G15343 USD 2.49.
Glues and Supper Glue:
For gluing wood, use Carpenters Glue available at Building Supplies,
For acrylic use "IPS WELD-ON # 16 clear, thickened CEMENT for Acrylic Sheet" at: http://www.tapplastics.com they don't ship to Canada, or Plastics 1-800-443-4447 Surrey, BC.
Glue in the magnets with E-Z "Super Glue" http://www.wondermagnets.com Force Field, you'll find it under "Needful Things" Thick Viscosity #5503 and the accelerator spray on #5504 . I bought the Med Viscosity which is still too thin. Once the glue is sprayed with the accelerator, it hardens instantly, good stuff. One thing though, if you double up two ferrite magnets with 5503 you have about 2 seconds before they become none removable, they in fact will brake before the glue will give and that is without the accelerator!!!
1N4001--->1Amp 50Volt, 1N4007--->1Amp 1000Volt, 1N4008--->1Amp 12Volt, 1N4948---> 2Amp 1000V, 1N4725---> 3Amp 1000V
Diodes Library: http://www.nusaweb.com/reliability/download/diode.pdf
Stock Drive Products / Sterling Instrument.
For Canada at: CT&M Marketing call: 905 471 4939 E-mail: email@example.com or USA call: 328 3300 or Website: www.sdp-si.com E-Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
Plastic spur gears: stp inch Molded Spur Gear - 48 Pitch, material: Acetal/black
16 teeth 790-2 Catalog Number page 1-84 = A 1M 2-TA48016
18 " " " A 1M 2-TA48018
72 " " " A 1M 2-TA48072
96 " " " A 1M 2-TA48096
They have a minimum order of $50.00 + shipping. In Canada email Stock Drive Products or Eservice
If you order directly on their website using your credit card they do not have a $50 minimum. If you would like to order over the phone you should call their Sales Dept. at 516-328-3300.
NE2 By-Pin Base Lamp and many more at MCM
#NE2 LAMP 117V NEON WITH RESISTOR Lamps, Neon with resistor #NE2, Voltage: 117 V
MCM Part # 25-170
Triodes are equivalent to polarity and direction of current flow as an NPN transistor
Triode-------->P---Plate = collector
G---Grid = base
F---filament or K---cathode = emitter
Low -Mu Twin Power Triode 6080
New and used anywher from $10.- to 24.- and up http://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/new.html
Go to Lindsay's Technical Books if you have lots of time and a skinny wallet http://www.lindsaybks.com/ http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/series/index.html , if not for the lathe, the Charcoal Foundry would com in handy to cast aluminum rotors, saving you the milling work.
If you can afford an approx. CAD 846.- incl. insurance, shipping and your UPS brokerage fee which you are looking after, then consider the 7" x 14" Mini Lathe with a 30" overall length. If you are in close quarters it will fit nicely on top of your 18" x 27" tool box roller cabinet, it's a dandy little machine. In Canada now available with a bed 2" shorter 7" X 12" in the Princess Auto stores for about the same price.
Go to http://www.toolshopusa.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi punch in mini lathe into their search engine and go to details for a bigger picture. In the middle of June 2006 they had a hundred of them in stock and are selling them on discount prices for USD 539.99 Item #4698, a current promotion if I'm not mistaken. I bought one from them and when it arrived on my door step here in B.C., Canada, a couple of plastic parts where broken and two plastic parts where, missing. I wrote Customer Service of toolshopusa an email explaining my problem to which they responded by sending me all replacement parts free of charge.
This mini lathe circuit board uses a 6Amp fuse, which is a nuisance and is hard to find. I bought some Push To Reset Type from Digi-Key Part-No. PB187-ND. I set up a 3mm cut on alu. 1. gear for a test and made it snort, the motor took the abuse for about 2" along the shaft 'till it stopped dead as the new breaker kicked on. I let it cool for a while and reset it, no problem!
Next size up for $749.- USD +shipping and brokerage fee with 4" 3-jaw chuck, 5 " 4-jaw chuck, face plate, steady and follow rest, metric and inch change gears no plastic gears but 6 given spindle speeds which is not as good as rheostat controlled RPM for threading or feeding wire onto a bobbin: http://www.lathemaster.com/LATHEMASTER8x14Lathe.htm
If you want to spend a bit more I suggest a 3-IN-1 METALWORKING MULTIPURPOSE MACHINE which will give you more versatility so you can mill the rotors after the lathe work, at
The magnets you need for the SSG project are ceramic ferrite magnets, do not use neodymium magnets!!
Once you need to buy more and bigger magnets, a cheaper way is to acquire 25x100x150mm (1x4x6”) slabs for around $28.00 CAD. at http://www.indigo.com/magnets/gphmgnts/strontium-ferrite-magnet.html or http://www.wondermagnets.com/
If you are looking for mor acuracy and less problems in balancing go for the 1x1x4" ceramic (ferrite) magnets at: http://www.northwestmagnet.com/permanent-magnets.html
For the window motor http://www.magnet4less.com/ndfebmagnetblocks.html or
http://www.magnet4less.com/ or send them an email at "Applied Magnets - Magnet4less.com (through Yahoo! Store Order System)" or www.magnet4less.com or phone at 1-972-333-6492 price for 1" Neo cube is approx. 6@ 5.9 USD each or 50 @ 5.70 USD each
BD243C: Emitter base = 5V, collector current = 6A DC and 10A pulse (by Fairchild)
collector-base voltage =100V, collector-emitter = 100V http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/BD243.shtml
This one NJL4281D is not available yet
So far I have picked them up locally. I started with 2N3055's then I went to BD243C NPN's (100V, 6A/peak 10A, Emitter to Base 5V) and BD244C PNP's.
http://ca.digikey.com and . Digi also carries the upgrade of BUL213 which is BUL216 4Amp 800V and an MJE18008OS 8Amp 450V
This next ones are for the bigger multy coilers at about 2.90/piece: MJL21194 16 Amp 250V Thermal Track at http://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/product.do?id=NJL3281D
MJL21194 Data: CEV 250, CBV 400, CCC 16A/30A http://www.futurlec.com/TransPowerMJE.shtml
MJL21194 sold at low prices are likely counterfeit parts see: http://sound.westhost.com/fake/counterfeit-p3.htm#21193
The motorola MJL21193 and 4 with date stamp CX0028 (year 2000) which I bought, I'm having problems with at the moment. Intended fraud obviously has its negative effects. If Motorola since 1998 no longer produced semiconductors then my problems are evident !!!
Power Supply Adjustable:
Zurich # DS-304M 0 - 15 VDC fully adjustable bench supply 25 Amps continuous 30 Amps peak. CAT # PS-2512 for $165.- at http://www.allelectronics.com toll free 800 826 5432 made in Van Nuys, CA.
Power Rheostat / Potentiometer:
Wire wound G5096, 250Ohm , 1 1/2", 25Watts
Wire wound Linear Pot. G13517, 300 Ohm
G13521, 3K www.goldmine-elec.com
Good and cheep G14806 100uF 330V 99 cents http://www.goldmine-elec.com
#6-32 x3/8 and 1/2"pan head stainless steel machine screws. For the alu. heat sink plates center hole, I use #8-32 x1/2 oval tapered sst machine screw. Available in
Wood screws, brass
#6x1/2,x3/4, x1, x1/ 1/4, x1 1/2"
16 Amp 800Volt Thyristor (16RIA80) G1276 This or similar SCR will raise the charging voltage and drop the charging current, volts measured across the SCR (as example see notes on Image 7 SSG 6b) www.goldmine-elec.com
8462-85ML 85ml (3 oz) Tube http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/8462.html
Steel 2" hex cold drawn:
Measured down the parallel sides, not over the hex corners.
Out of Calgary Canada : http://www.assortedmetals.com/
Tape measures 100ft 1/2" SAE/Metric and 12ft 1/2" SAE/Metric, Stainless Steel or plastic Vernier Caliper and 0 to 2" OD micrometer, which you'll need for sure if you want to do accurate work.
Lathe and Drill press is a must have, !/2" Hand drill variable and reversible 0 - 750 RPM, Hand and bench grinders, belt sander, Table or band saw, twin cutter, 1/16 - 1/2" drill bits, 3/8 - 1" spade bits, 2" drum sander, 120/320 emery cloth, Piezo Start Micro Torch 2370 F butane, heavy duty Solder iron, 60/40 Rosin Core Solder, heat sink clamps/tweezers, hands free clip vice, precise sharp jaws strip cutter, side cutter, flat nose - long/short nose-bent nose pliers, hack saw, plastic/steel spring clamps, alligator clips (heavy) plastic coated, electric/masking tape, bastard flat/round files, bar clamps, multi screw driver set, small socket set metric/imperial, bench vise with jaw pads, hammer etc.
Wire magnetic (copper):
Small roll of 26AWG (American Wire Gage)
Large roll of 23AWG
Resistance of #23 magnet wire is
Min. 20.67 ohms / 1000 ft
Nom 20.31 ohms / 1000 ft
Max 20.13 ohms / 1000 ft
#23 awg HAMT 200 deg C magnet wire. approx 35 kg per spool. Price as of tomorrow morning. $ 9.99 per kg (Keep an eye on the copper market)
Manufacturers Petrochemical Surcharge extra at $ 0.225 /kg
FOB Guelph, Ontario
Terms. TBA in Canada-----> http://www.electro-wind.com/ or
Cover all your batteries while charging, very important for safety, hitting a battery with too big of a voltage spike or spark might be enough cause to explode it!!! Meaning acid everywhere and possible injury, so better be save than sorry.
Because of the twisting slimy slithering liars this chapter is now closed too.
They use any means... as friendly as can be pretending to help you ......only to corrupt you in the next instant!
Carl or whatever your name is with all your bankster/illuminati-buddies who are trying to shut me up, you must have noticed that your efforts are in vain!! I can only tell you over and over, that with your negative actions you are tremendously hurting yourselves, because you will end up imprisoned into solid matter again for millenniums. As followers of satan you follow his stupidity in his total control and will never free yourselves from his chains and selfish wrath, which you will experience after your death. How can you think of yourselves as being intelligent in such a loosing position??? While alive on this planet you are throwing your spiritual gifts, given to you by our Creator, before the swine and will regret it deeply in the very near future!
Pass it on; it will be for the wellbeing of your own soul.
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