Schematics Illustrated

Switching the "Big Six or Eight"
In continuation of the replication page, I must tell you that I changed a few things around. First I removed all the wires from my 8-coiler, left two coils and removed the others. Squashed a couple of 1/2" copper pipes, didn't have any 3/4 K-copper, which is the stuff the plumbers use for H2O house service lines (heavy wall pipe, match the cross sections of the twisted wire), then I soldered up four transistors according image 8 above, used two #8 wires for bus bars off the transistor terminals, pos. and neg. each, ensuing the two coils in parallel and set everything up. Anyhow I'm getting ahead of myself, the drawing above is the result of my new setup.
Another reason for piggy backing a second coil to one plate is having looked at the "Big Boy". Although I think the principal of the "Big Boy" is slave/ motor coil and generator coils.
Looking at the book, multiplying the single SSG transistor did not make any sense to me at first, until I mounted all four on the plate and studied the setup. That some transistors have a negative resistance region, has come across clearly, but how to comprehend it, is another thing. Never the less, perhaps picking the energy up through the switching transistors into the bus bar, instead direct off the plate, like I have been doing it, might speed up the whole operation. Realizing that two or more bipolar transistors hooked up in parallel might have an amplification effect like a differential amplifier, which would not really surprise me knowing that John Bedini is a specialist in transistor amplification. Thus I hooked up the four transistors and everything according my feelings (the Lord's help), with the same ohm setting for max. VAC output off the coils (from before with one transistor setup only, since I never managed the wheel to reach the sweet spot) and gave the 12" 8-mag wheel a good spin by hand. When I flicked the switch, the wheel took right off like I gave it a kick and so did the needle of the charging voltmeter. At first the motor drew 4.5 amps then it dropped down to 3.8 then to 3.0 then it settled to the sweet spot at 2.5 amps just-a-hummin.. with a charging reading into the batteries at 0.3amps. Besides my pounding heart of joy, I was getting quite worried, whether my feeble wheel would stand this high RPM with those big magnets, the mags didn't have much gluing surface and my copper strapping was not very tight either... it was really creating wind. I ran it for about an hour, taking some readings at 4.30 in the morning.

Image 8a
You can see that I am not to far off by this next image 8a, which is the basic (small) proper schematic for this machine (Icehouse) which John Bedini just gave out (Oct. 06). It also testifies of the forgiveness of little mistakes or changes without sacrificing too much output or efficiency of this machines, see my report at Image 3 (SSG) above. Once you work it you get better while you stay at it!

The big crash
Some hours later; no sooner the wheel was up to full speed it stopped with a big crash...the result? More work! Just because I was too tired to pay attention. If I would have looked it over first, I probably could have prevented a bent shaft and the two wrecked coils.....Here are the pictures:

Image 9

The coils look worse as they are, I rebuilt them already, for the wheel ? I will park it permanently.
Image 10

Image 11 (see SSG4 ICEHOUSE without the steering cam)

See comment on replication page 2

Image 11a

Be careful with this one, you are dealing with kilo volts at the generator and bridge!
Sitting back pondering about this set-up, it wouldn't surprise me, if John Bedini's big ten-coil-monopole has a similar coil arrangement as above, recalling JB's comment to Marcus of February 2 - 2005, regarding his ten coiler: " the coil arrangement is something that I can not talk about". We all know that John Bedini can't talk about KV. How about four drivers and six radiant energy generator coils in series for pure cold RE kilo volts?? I realize according to JB's note of # 984 /Feb. 2/05 there is quite a bit more to his ten coiler with its scalar fields then what I might be coming across with. I have no intention to oversimplify an inventors work of brilliance!!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Bedini_SG/message/984
Don't be disheartened about # 984, but remember my earlier comment of above: It also testifies of the forgiveness of little mistakes or changes without sacrificing too much output or efficiency of this machines.

When I write Tesla series wound (with the Bedini-twist), I am referring to my sketch Image12 INDEX "Enhanced conductors" in my Work Shop page.
Join neg.and pos. buses from slave coils on the SCR side contrary to my drawing, I did it just for my convenience.
Multiply the main-bus cross sections by the number of coil buses. Wo words, a 6-coiler main-bus cross section is 6 times of a #8 bus, which in turn would be the size in front and after the SCR.
Whenever I think of the SCR I hear the strong steady click-click -click of the RE spikes, which I indeed can feel if I place my hand on the charging wire :)

See my short EV article in my Parts Page under Index 4a

Image 12

My latest SSG

I built a new SSG circuit according to JB’s newest multi coil schematic, while using a 300 ft 6 - 18AWG and 1 - 23AWG mag wire coil and 14 - 100uf 330V caps. This time I connected the six wires directly to each transistor terminal collector of all 6 - MJL21194’s ( I realize now that this method is used when all individual transistors collector pads are insulated from the heat sinks). When I checked the heat sink with the acustic circuit tester for sound the following occured: No buzzing sound but instead, interestingly and to my delight, the circuit was oscillating solid state, without the rotor moving, with the rheostat cranked up to 230Ohms, charging two 1000CCA batteries a tenths of a volt every 35 seconds for a while. There was quite an audible clicking sound present at the SCR (16RIA80). I left the two batts charge over night from 12.62V to14.26 and noticed the next day that the deep cycle marine driver only dropped two tens of a volt!!

Although the circuit had been running by itself, but once I hooked the LED back up and pressed the start button I had no rotation not even the LED lid up, nothing, all nail dead zilch zero!!
I have spent hours in finding why I Can't get the MJL21194 transistors to fire properly. This happened to me once before when shortening out the system by reversing the battery terminals by mistake while experimenting carelessly. Not until I exchanged all transistors could I get it running again.
Although this new case is entirely different I did unsolder all transistors to check them all for proper Ohm reading again. The familiar transistor firing buzz sound is missing right from the start, while the LED hooked to the coil leads, tells me the firing stroke now though. RPM is barely there, right down to 1.8 Ohm of the resistance values.
To struggle with this kind of problems is tough realizing only to well the practical handicap of the present lack of experience. John Bedini has over 30 years experience in this while I can boast of hardly two years, hah…now we just have to buckle up and prove worthy of the gifts presented by John, he didn’t say for no reason, there is no such thing as free electricity.
It looks like the problem is in the 0.6V biasing voltage, proper resistance and timing needed to permit current to flow through the collector-emitter channels of the bipolar transistors to give the rotor the kick needed to rev up.
I went back to square one experimenting with one transistor and zero caps on this circuit. I will work it until I have it, then I will slowly add the rest to it one by one, like I did previously.
I ended up using one of my other rotors and coil. Not until I dumped all resisters I got rotation at 0.5 Ohms on the trigger to the base where I used 6 #23AWG wires to the different transistor bases from the rheostat, I also found better performance by mounting all six wire strands to the heat sink instead to the transister collector terminal. The funny thing is once I had it running at the sweet spot at 66 Ohms, the rotor will now start without any trouble!! Even though I moved up and down the resistance paths I still missed the little operating window. I did try to set proper biasing voltage to the transistors, without success.
Magnetic interference with steel on the rotor like the 10x30mm bearings and steel shaft was part of the problem with the other rotor. I should have known to stick to smaller bearings 8x20mm and aluminium or brass shafting. My main problem was the two aluminium bearing supports in close proximity to the rotor. Plastic or wood is the answer. This is just a little example how much can go wrong when you work on a new design. That is why it is important for beginners to duplicate a design exactly, which is already running .

I also wash the grease out of my bearings and use same oil as I use on my diesel engines which is a 15-40 multi grade. For superior friction reduction a few added drops of BITRON seams to work well.

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BLACK SAND

The possibility of finding it is not very great. I found some near a city along the beach of a lake in the interior of BC. A good place to find it is on mining sites or even on sand banks of lakes which those creeks flow into. A prospector says: "I run a 3.5 ton per hour dry washer and at the end of the day I have several 5 gallon buckets of pure black sand". The desert fox automatic gold panning machine is a method of acquiring black sand by hand in a hurry. An other way is take a 2” neo magnet inside a plastic bag and drag it over sand in different locations until you find some pay dirt. Turn the bag inside out and you have a clean magnet and the magnetic sand inside your bag.
Just because you find some black sand does not necessarily indicate magnetic sand. Also the quality of strength in magnetic sand varies greatly. You have good quality sand if it builds up like porcupine quills on the magnet. Black sand is composed of different minerals of black grains and sometimes even white crystal grains of magnetite. The easiest way to separate the weak from the strong magnetic minerals is by building your self a 45 degree acrylic shoot with first and second 2" neo magnets (you need them anyway for the generator side) fastened on top of it by aluminum hinges for releasing it through the Plexiglas once you have enough accumulation clinging to the magnets through the glas. You need a 2mm variable slot on the bottom of the hopper and a 10mm variable drop down plain in front of each magnet on the shoot .
Image 13a

**Bedini/Muller-Combination
Since we know now from John Bedini how to use a byfiler wound stator coil with trigger wire for timing the transistors to create rotation to drive the wheel/rotor we can implement it in Bill Muller's set up instead of Hall Effect sensor switching where one uses little magnets on the rotor for the stator drivers which is another method used for timing. With 1"x2"neodymium rotor magnets using 2"magnetic sand cores for the stator coils for quick release of the magnetism is a must on all coils to prevent core saturation, no eddy currents or hysteresis losses with the black sand, but instead a sharp magnet repellent kick which is in fact the most important aspect of Bill Muller's machine. Also see Muller below.
Then use the, not back EMF, but the collected aether or better radiant potential resulting out of the abrupt tension collapse in those driving coils while rectified through pulsed caps onto the commutator which is oscillating very fast between driving the rotor and super-charging the battery which runs these driving coils. Make sure not to load the caps more than 5 times the battery voltage, which is also the magneto voltage and why John Bedini used 6 coils (approx. 60V) to run a 12V motor for a magneto driver, for safety. Don't drain the photo caps more than to the battery level each time you pulse them into a battery or batt. bank. If you hit a battery with too high of a voltage spike you are liable to blow it up!! Saturation on steel (welding rod) cores of the coils when using neo's is the reason John Bedini used ceramic ferrite magnets hence you can build a Bedini set up more cost efficient.

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SPARK DISCHARGE

Image 14 Radiant Monopole motor Posted: October 28th 2006

Monopole Motor with Electro Radiant Transceiver
I baught and read "The Free Energy Secrets of Cold Electricity" a book by Peter Lindemann D.Sc. and came to the following understanding: The electro-radiant charge-receiving grids in Edwin Gray's conversion element switching tube is accepting a radiant charge due to a energy shock at the time of the spark in the spark gap at the voltage collapse. Power is raised in Gray's setup from the battery via a cap to 3000 volts DC clipped by a wacuum tube with a impulse duration of less than 50 microseconds through the spark gap, creating explosive radiant electrostatic fields of spatially-distributed voltage which is picked up by the charge receiving grids. In the Monopole motor we do not have 3000 volts, but we have between 150 and 400volt spikes at the time of the field collapse which I assume also results in energy shocks creating explosive radiant electrostatic fields of spatially-distributed voltage all along the rod-core of the coil, hence the reason for mounting the electro-radiant charge-receiving grids right in the center of the Monopole motor. Perhaps I am mistaken in my theorizing, although my feeling or inner voice tells me I am not very far off. I'll build it as soon I can manage some free time. In the mean while others might want to give it a try or get the parts for it since there is more than one way to saddle this horse and I think the sooner anybody does it the better. Rumor has it that Bush is planning to drop the US dollar to 50 cents shortly. If this comes true then look out!!!
Puzzled? Is image 14 oversimplified? Don't take my word for it and learn of the wonderful performance of cold electricity, it is not cold as it sounds which promises excitement especially considering that this high voltage you can touch since it does not burn or kill, except from capacitors, which is contrary to what we read about the HV discharge of standard Tesla coils we see on the net. Read of the amazing transformer/converters developed by Nikola Tesla and Edwin Gray, which Peter explains and describes so thoroughly in his book.

Image 14a is an example of some parts of my shop experiments. This specific Tesla transformer cone is wound left hand for incoming potential, whereas the gray tube is fitted with a 3/4'' copper tube filled with epoxy/magnetic sand in this case.
(The radiant energy is converted from a remote right hand polarized cone as a raised potential of high currant in secondary connected to line down the small end of the cone, towards the base for lowering current through the primary by induction. For safety: The end of the secondary adjacent to the primary being electrically connected and with earth when the transformers are in use or in other words, the fine wire (secondary) is taken from the ground plate up to the middle of the primary loop (heavy wire) where it is connected via switch, continuing up the transformer cone out the top to line and down the top of the other cone to its base where it is connected in the middle of the primary loop continuing to the other ground plate).

Image 14a

By the way, you can spare yourself a big disappointment in building Tesla Cone Transformers, without first doctoring with high pressure DC-magnetos and big capacitors, disrupters, high frequency (see Image 18 below), twin conductors, unidirectional interrupted high-impulse-charge-discharge rate spark discharges!! Impulses must be short and precise in their successions for ultimate results. :)
Why did I write this? Think of cold electricity meaning HVDC of multi Kilo Volts with short impulse duration and radiant charge due to a energy shock with spark interrupter inside an Ed Gray tube. Make your own out of a coffe or juice glass bottle, (Work Shop Index No. 30 how to cut glass), like I wrote above, will create for you a power which does not hurt but will light lamps and heat coils. Once you go further, then sure you have to have 12uF 5KVA caps (under Capacitors) for serious work done and transform it down through a step down Tesla transformer which is the transformer you see in this experiment:
http://www.intalek.com/Index/Projects/MultiSparkGap/MultiSparkGapExp.htm
How do you get KVolts? Check out my 3d replication SSG and have a good look at that long coil. In my workshop pages you'll see how to build your own coil bobbins. Use 1/16" tie or 1.2mm mechanics wire- or 2" magnetic sand-cores and make them about 6" to 10" or 150mm to 250mm long. Fill them with .....Just think "induction spark coil" and go from here---> I posted this remark Nov. 27-07, and mount about 6 of them in series on the magneto end of your window motor shaft stator plate with 7 magnets (if you can keep the 1-1/2 mag.spacing) on the rotor disc and see what you get; Probably about 12KVAC which you have to rectify, pending what you need it for!!! Hei guys...I am just guessing on this one...I think it is one Volt per turn minus some losses or something of that sort..... For kinetic energy, to keep the rpm steady, I'll use a big car or pick- up alu. tire rim, they are heavier as you might think. It is what I am going to do next. This has been an important part of my schedule for a long time!!!

The John Bedini SG interrupter circuit

Posted Jan. 19th 2008

The way I see it: I wondered all along what this School Girl exercise is really all about. I might have found the BASE of it now. John Bedini was pushed against the wall, no doubt under order of the global/opec controllers and forced to stay low key, but is like me, he never gives up. Because of the “Jim Watson incident” (Bedini's 1984 instructed 12KV self runner), he would no longer openly give away his secret(s) (because there is more) how to draw aether energy out of the air. Instead he placed it out in front of every body’s nose for grabs; if you can see it, that is, very clever indeed. Only a God fearing man is capable of such wisdom.

On this 24th day of February 2008, I provide you here with a copy confirmation of John Bedini's own words from one of his email (message No. 10066) to the Bedini_SG group: “...I on the other hand, remade the 1984 machine, turned it into the monopole energizer. I was told long ago to buy gasoline, stay alive, but the internet has given the chance to everybody with what I knew in this field, soon coming to an end...” This in deed is making me a very happy camper on this God forsaking populated earth proving to you readers that listening to the heart, works if the feith is there!!

This reminds me of a young Swiss mountain man, way back as they still fought with cross bows, who promised never to tell any life soul of the battle secret he'd learned. Once at home as he entered the lit up tavern he started talking to the wall oven, while the card playing wine drinking locals in surprise where listening up to the young man who was facing the oven and busy elaborating the detailed battle plan of the enemy he had scouted out. When he was done, he thanked the oven for listening.....he only told the oven and therefore kept his promise.

The light suddenly came on when studying some of Nikola Tesla’s high frequency interrupter diagrams, especially his high frequency apparatus with the double flat secondary spiral, gap, cap and short primary coil; Steered by his special adjustable inductive coil which he operated as a mechanical relay switch; certainly very similar to an inductive spark coil, except a few important variations.
Brother helped a little too by saying why don’t you use a semiconductor for the interrupter! While pondering what switch I should use, it dawned on me, the “John Bedini circuit” of course.
Could be the voltage produced by the magneto is a little on the high side although I think we have to probably hook it in parallel, the primary anyway. If the standard bipolar transistors are to much voltage restricted we can always go to the “Low-Mu Twin Power Triode 6080” which is good to 800V.
Since the primary circuit in my magneto 7” coil is low voltage fed by the neo magnet a MJL21194 might just do the trick. Two layers at 296 turns. (178/1.2mmx2= 296) =3.4V at 122Hz on test bead with driver of 4 ceramic mags at 332Hz without the capacitor working. See My Workshop update index #37.
I am proof that I can make things work even though I do not understand the theory perfectly. I work a lot by a straight inner feeling, which is the Saviors help, and get things done. Out of lack of concentration or understanding or over eagerness sometimes I fail.

Here is the way I think it might be going down:
With the approaching magnet, the primary coil is magnetically charged (Magneto); at the same time the adjustable capacitor is being charged with this low voltage halve wave and positive sine pulse, which is not being used in the SG configuration. This charge could be enhanced by a standby coil specially wound with an adjustable ferrite core (Tesla) for maximum capacity and adjustable frequency. Specially wound coil meaning bifilar wound with the two wires connected in series.
As the magnet is leaving the core, ”discharging the core”, the transistor is switching on and dumping the capacitor’s voltage into the primary very abruptly as the voltage collapse causes an energy shock while at the same time radiantly charging the secondary winding. The proper choosing of the constants of the short primary winding, cap and charging coil, if used, is obviously essential for promoting the tension, timing and speed of the cap discharge. Also the instant magnetism release of the sand core is depending on how well the whole operation will work. Core saturation will slow down the speed of voltage collapse and cap discharge, which is the reason you can't use Neo's with iron wire cores. The other option is an air core which most likely John Bedini would use. In any case, I will try all three methods. I am having much fun doing it. :)

I see myself changing the construction of the system a number of ways if I'm not happy with it. I know now that comparatively few turns of thick wire and the rapidity of vibration of the primary currents give the required pressure in the secondary circuit without the need of fine wire in the secondary coil. Even if I have to use the magneto as an independent power source and use an adjustable electromagnetic coil of greatly increased capacity for the interrupter to get the speed. According to Tesla, a circuit with a large capacity behaves as a slack spring, whereas one with a small capacity acts as a stiff spring vibrating more vigorously, which would be frequencies I probably would not be able to measure with my present instruments. Study Nikola Tesla's "Lecture before the New York Academy of Science - April, 1897". Then you will become to realize too, Tesla as a math wizard and mechanical engineer among many other gifts, determined all physical constants by math, his principles being thus tricky, which is the reason John Bedini tried to keep it right down to earth for us; I'll exhaust all his possibilities first before trying to venture into Tesla's ball park again even though it was one of his patents that gave me the most important clue.

Nikola Tesla exhausted his coils and capacitors for insulating purposes in a pressure tank while melting the beeswax and paraffin mixture with steam permeating the mix into the smallest spaces to force out all gas bubbles, which was the reason his equipment was capable to stand these high electrical pressures and extremely rapid potentials.

As I can see, there is quite a bit more to get to the higher frequency currents, although the present object is to get the independent dynamo power source to begin with, which is the purpose of this paragraph, meaning that a HV of say 3-5KV, would do just fine. The KHz frequency created by the shaft RPM and seven magnets off the secondary, I should be able to measure at full rpm of the magneto. I measured my SSG4, on my Replication II page, running at 674 Hz (coil output) my meter maxes out at 40KHz.

If you kept track of my writings about the Radiant Monopole motor, “Image 14”, you, the “old guard” would note though, that I am getting closer all the time. Yea Roamer… I can just about see you smiling…Sorry I'm so slow, but thanks a lot for you and your friends help!
OK folks, here is some more food for thought and incentive to get with it and build the magneto energizer. Most of you people are much faster comprehending then I am, thus you have it done in no time!
I could have waited and let you guess what I’m doing until I have it all working, but this way you’ll have more encouragement and chances to outdo me. You can’t go wrong here you always wanted a self runner anyway!

Image 14b

By the copper as soon as you can, because soon you won't be able to get any!!

Proper Ground Rod

If you can't find a copper plate, then "K"-copper tubing you can get from a plumber. Any ground rod in dry ground isn't much good. You need to see to it for wet ground. Apply conductive grease to the copper to keep electrolyses away.

Image 14 c

Here is what you've been waiting for: http://www.cheniere.org/books/FEG/index.html John Bedini and Tom Bearden's new book ,
FREE ENERGY GENERATION
or http://truthinheart.com/order1.html for $33.12

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SELF RUNNING MAGNETOS

Image 13 This is the famous John Bedini Free Energy Generator. Thank you John Bedini!

The torquy and efficient window motor with SSG type Bedini/Cole switching, Image 6a, or JB's lab notes , is the idea instead of the standard 12V PM motor above. Having built the SSG B/C it will be a breeze for you now to construct a window motor (not car window see image 15) and extending the shaft as shown above, the motor will run itself fed by the battery which recharges itself, if you setup the commutator right that is, like John said, you have to do a little tinkering to get it to work!! The advantage of the window motor producing its own scalar-power is resulting in full usable output of the magneto, generator or Hugh Piggott's alternator.
Use SS or brass shaft, 6x6" long plastic rotor and 6 1x1x6" long or better yet 2" super pole neo magnets since we have no iron core. The impedance of this motor is very low start with 400 feet depending on your battery size 1 to 4 #18 1 # 23awg magnet wire per window coil or skip the smaler wire and use hall trigger. Remember more windings = more RPM/Volts stronger spikes, less primary draw. More wires twisted as one wire "Lize", brings down the impedance!
Study Image 12 which is for battery charging though, a slightly different principle and construct a controller with brushes copper and epoxy (commutator) switching from the battery to motor and energizer/window-motor-coil to battery/capacitor at 50% (adjustable)on/off cycles or direct off the window coils back EMF/radiant energy mix of the widow motor which process has to be fast enough to make it work, like the commutator above or image 14 and 15 below. I might confuse you here some what, with other words, there is more then one way to make this work. Very effective, no components to burn out, no sparking, it will handle any amount of current you'll ever need! If you are interested, Rick Friedrich at one time sold John Bedini's booklet on this generator for about 20.- US-Dollars. It is worth every cent of it, which is apparently now included in John's book.
Muller
On the Bedini energizer side for preventing locking up (Bill Muller), use an odd number (5 magnets and six coils) of, this time, neodymium magnets while winding an even number of stator coils in series with 20AWG magnet wire at 250 turns each while like Bill Muller using 2" magnetic sand cores for extra big voltage spikes and magnet repellent kick, with a stainless steel coil mounting screw, or cast iron cuttings (machine shop) as a second and lesser option although in our case we probably can get away with it not having to worry to much about core saturation** no doubt but having to sacrifice quality on the voltage spikes. According to Bill he used 3mm magnetic wire on his coils because of the high current (32V-7.5A =240V) with a limited amount of windings using three coils for driving the rotor by means of big mosfets etc. timed with small magnets on the rotor of his machine which I witnessed myself as he demonstrated it to me and my brother, he might have used thinner wire on the stator coils to drive his rotor. I recall clearly that his approx. 26" rotor didn't turn all that fast 2500rpm if I'm not mistaken, while he demonstrated high current and high torque on a third of his coils installed, brother bear couldn't slow it down with one of Bill's rags in his hand. Bill claimed a 1:2 gain at 400shaft hp with 30 stator coils. See Bedini/Muller-Combination.

Make yourself a core mold with grooves for the bobbin sides with a greased up ss-screw in the center of it and mix the black sand/cast iron cuttings with 50/50 epoxy to a thick paste before filling the mold, keep in mind that the sand or filings will be settling to the bottom of the core-mold within the epoxy-mix if you don't do it right. Opposite to ferrite, iron or wire core, the black sand-epoxy-mix is a none conductor. The magnetic attraction isn't as strong either which is why you must widen the diameter of the core, but zero saturation no matter how great the gauss power and speed of the by passing magnet, also instant separation, perhaps even a magnet repellent cick, which is the reason why Bill Muller used it.

Bedini-Tesla-Gray Home-Power
Posted: June 23rd 2008

Image 13a

This drawing is premature but have at it. Now you know at least for sure what I'm heading for. See also "the Watson Machine" INDEX #39 in my Work Shop pages

This gadget is made out of ordinary materials like a copper coupling, brass, resin and PVC pipe

Image 14

Image 15 "Update"

I updated the commutator mechanics with simplicity in mind for the tinkerers who don't have to much equipment. PVC is easy to work with. For more stability on the brush holders drill holes and glue them in, instead on the top of the coupling like the drawing is suggesting.

For how to construct the commutator, look in my Work Shop page under INDEX 2a Commutator Casting.

If you are not good in reading drawings here is the sequence: Prep. shaft in lathe with bearing and commutator in place with bushing and snap ring groove, unless you want to place a thread with washer and nut but then you have to add a washer in between the bushing and commutator. Drill hole in the plywood, machine the bearing press fit, clean up surface flush with bearing for the PVC end base... you can do all this on a drill press if you are handy... and screw it onto the board with 4 screws, machine 2"PVC pipe to length drill all the necessary holes and glue it onto the end base make sure it is lining up with the commutator. then glue the prepared battery brush holder coupling in place. Drill hole and cut a plug out of solid PVC with hole saw to create bushing for brush. Bore for brush must have close tolerance and a groove for a pin to slide up and down on the brass brush or other means, the assembly can't be sloppy. Where you see the arrow above the words "adjustable sleeves", there are two gaps, I drew the set screw and holder onto the wrong side in my hurry, it should be on the right side of the brush holder, also make those gaps wider for a starter until you have the permanent setting. For easier spring tension settings setup the two opposing brushes in a horizontal position. What you have left over then are two brush holders to build with the couplings with Allan set screws to slide and adjust until you have the battery thinking it is not doing any work (charging itself) and thus... you have the self runner working tickedy boo!!!

Update: "Image 15", I found it easier to just glue the inner PVC into the bore of a chunk of Lexan, on this updated pulser and mount this base onto the stator panel with the screws on the outside of the assembly. No need for springs since the brushes are quite springy. To get more inside room I suggest to use a 1" copper coupling in place of the 1-1/4, for the commutator, unless you are planning to use a second bigger pulser on the same shaft for the EG tube, then go bigger on the PVC.

For safety make sure that the primary battery is not hit by to much current of your energizer, to remedy, use an in line capacitor on the positive feed as a current buffer, the pulsed DC high voltage will bypass which is what you want. It will be the current (Ampere) not the pressure (Voltage) which might blow up the battery, hence make sure you have a good cover on it!!

John Bedini's Cole-Bedini (window) Motor, an other gift of him to the people

Image 15 I call it: "Torquy" Posted: November 17th 2006

When you build your first window motor use a steel or brass shaft through an armature core of 2" hexagon steel 5" long (unless you have an extra long 7/16 and 1/2" drill bit) and 1x1x1 neo magnets (two 1" cubes have more lifting capacity then one 1x1x2" cube) with three coils complete using 2 - UGN3020T's Hall preferable for the switching. The perm. setting of the N and S Hall are at 180 º opposing each other, whereas the three magnets on the little disc are on a 120º spacing, giving you a total maximum "off" period of 90º or 25%. Hence it is evident that you have to switch both the N and the S. Use the Cole Bipolar schematic for now with two power silicone transistor MJE3055, NPN, two MJE2955T, PNP, 10A, 60V and two MPS8599 amplifier transistors (PNP's). This is enough info to make it work. Now you have the full Cole-Bedini Motor schematic and more of John's drawings right here. Wind your first three coils bi- or quad-filer #18/23AWG or quint-filer #23AWG, image 16, that way you are not committed to hall switching. Twisted wire gives you more voltage also the coils end up deeper, hold the wires of the coil together with lacquer and cloth or super glue in spots (it has to be slightly flexible) as one unit before you take it out of the jig (wax the jig). Also while the coil is still sitting in the jig set up a jig for a plastic epoxy bearing (drinking straw slide fit)at the N and S end, which will take a brass or SS rod threaded with a shoulder both sides on the outside edge parallel to the shaft in the center of the coil thickness to secure the coils in cylinder form and equal spacing.

If you switch it properly you can make it run itself. Don't give up if it does not work the first time. Use pots on all the resister and keep adjusting the timing. Move things around be aware on one hand that my drawings or text can be mistaken or misunderstood, on the other hand it should keep your mind occupied for a good start with all this info towards sure success. Use a big capacitor and let the motor charge the capacitor while you spin it, by tapping either coil for the AC, incl. the red one, at different times over a full wave bridge rectifier (FWBR) to the capacitor with the running leads of the motor also hooked to the capacitor......

Yes, there is three ways of self running this motor. The easier one is the 1st. With commutator switching from the energizer back and forth between battery and motor. Keep in mind that you can't charge a battery while extracting energy from it at the same time without destroying it like they do in cars. 2nd. Tapping AC from one or more coils via FWBR directly into a big capacitor while running the motor from that capacitor. 3d Switching a relay with a 555 timer via a bipolar transistor-- If you are wise, then you know how you have to handle this new gained knowledge!! Ron Cole apparently wasn't and drank himself to death as a result!.......

Make sure you keep an eye on the written text, all you need to know to make it work, you'll find right here in my pages. If you think not, then buy John's book with the latest window motor updates! Sorry, there is no window motor updates in his book. I just received the book in the beginning of August 07! The most interesting pages to me are the off whites of the magneto or free energy generator. Also study his website: http://www.icehouse.net/john34/ The motor won't likely run itself unless you construct it as show on this pages. For the last 7 years no one has publicly shown Bedini replication success for beginners (with God's help) as I have within this two last years. What is a taught theory or picture worth if you can't see the practical application for building it to make it work, apropos helping your neighbor. No sooner I had added drawing #11, which is image 15, to this page, John Bedini came out with his self runner demo and motor specifics. I am sure John Bedini didn't publicize his window motor Dada so it might be lost to some selfish controller. Here it is. Don't get nervous waiting for the file. It'll take at least 3 min. for the 16 drawings to appear on your screen!

No relay is needed to run this Window Motor!!! Had you known my page content, you would also have had your doubts about Mike's motor! Never the less his publicity of my page was great; thanks Mike! I made drawings # 4 and 5, one using a relay, but never used the relays in my motors because they are not reliable, so why waste the time and effort. Although if you are the person who has the time and tinkering spirit then this next drawing is for you:

Image 15 a

Image 15 b This is John Bedini's schematic which I took the above drawing from.